Before we get underway, although it may seem to some to have the climate of a rant, this piece is less about drawing divisions between those of differing drinking habits and more about education and the celebration of something that in the UK, we do really well. REALLY well. Sadly some things are irksome in the way we treat beer, those who drink it and the approach to our industry. For those who regularly engage with me or read my articles on a regular basis, know I have a passion for both beer and wine, although I would say I have more familiarity and probably authority with the former. I have held both beer and wine tastings, but have time for whisk(e)y, gin, vodka too (although it may sound like a mission statement for an alcoholic, bear with me!), as each drink has a place for when it can be enjoyed. Wine and beer especially lend themselves well to being paired with certain foods, although for some reason, we do not celebrate our beer being paired with food with the same gusto as wine does traditionally receive. Beer does have many negative associations across a mostly male demographic, from the lager-lout football hooligan, to the morose and drunken real-ale barfly, but there are also negative stereotypes for other drinks; Gin, Vodka and Whisk(e)y have their own connotations, as does cheap chardonnay. Twisting this, when we think of premium or luxury artisanal products within each of these categories of spirits and wines, the negative associations generally fade away. The same should be true with beer; alas it is not always. A good example (yes, bringing it up once again) was Liverpool City Council and Merseyside Police’s opposition to Brewdog opening premises in the city based purely on the reputation that there would be strong beers (and concluding this would cause issues). To date (granted three months is relatively short period), there doesn’t seem to have been an issue for either to take concern from the premises on Colquitt Street. Granted this is a little bit of ‘whataboutery’, but there is a pertinent point here. That beer does not get a fair press, considering the prominence of something we actually do incredibly well in this country. In terms of accessibility and pushing a product in the drinks market, wine often gets it’s own headline link on food and drink sections of broadsheet websites, plus wine also gets a page or even two to itself for wine writers picks. The same often isn’t true for beer getting this type of coverage on a regular basis. There are many examples of this in the ‘broadsheet’ world of journalism, which are shown in some of the screen grabs posted with this article. Move out of the virtual and printed world and into the clattering, bustling restaurants in the UK. Recently a beer writer sent out a tweet to a London establishment asking where beer matches were for the food on their menu; this is something that has set in heavily and hasn’t shifted. There’s only a single restaurant in Liverpool (currently, to my knowledge) that actively pairs beers with its food menu, whilst wine continues to be seen as a normal or celebratory choice for pairing with a meal. Often, an obligatory and grudging nod to beers is given, maybe 2 or 3 choices of ales, plus the array of mass-produced ‘lager’ for which people are usually charged £4+ for the privilege of sinking a bottle or pint of this stuff and which often does little for local producers/brewers and often pairs poorly. There is certainly the economics to consider, whereby margins are made from wine sales whilst beers do not garner the same profitability to restaurateurs, the ignorance is sadly not just on that side of the fence. Given the option to match a superb saison with some shellfish or a cheese dish and although it would be interesting and very tasty (provided the quality of food and drink allows), without actively suggesting this combination to a customer who might not have the beer knowledge, the saison would sit in a fridge or cellar, still waiting to be enjoyed. Jane Payton (beer sommelier of the year 2014) recently tweeted that the most widely drunk alcoholic beverage in the world was beer, not wine, not whisky and not vodka; in context this was within a suggestion to the BBC to use beer matching and not just wine matching with food on their food and drink programme – although they have done this on occasion, its almost lip service the number of times they do match a beer. A prime example of the matching of food and drink is on BBC One in the form of Saturday Morning Kitchen presented by James Martin. There are some excellent dishes cooked during this programme both by Martin and the guest chefs (well, at least those that aren’t doing the breaststroke in a lake of butter), which are crying out to be matched with a beer. However, at the end of each of these dishes, the camera pans out to admire the dish and we are then shifted to a supermarket (this in itself is a doubled edged sword – good for availability and so people are able to access the wine, but not exactly pushing a local merchant or local independent wine store, who also in theory could provide a better wine) in Cirencester or other UK town with a drinks expert to select something to pair with the dish just cooked in front of us. Sadly, 99.99% of the time, this seems to be a wine. Would it hurt the programme to select perhaps a cider or more pertinently, a beer to go with the dish? Granted there are other things to consider in this, such as the target audience for Saturday Morning Kitchen. 75 year old Edna from the wilds of the Scottish Highlands may ring in, having a bear carcass in the freezer and is planning a Sunday dinner, therefore she wants a recipe from one of the chefs and perhaps she would be less inclined to take beer with a meal. Joking aside, it seems rather imbalanced and ignorant to assume this always the case with the audience that they are not going to be interested in trying something different as a drinks match. More recently and positively wine experts such as Fiona Beckett have give time for matching some great beers to food on her own website and in other publications, this is to be welcomed. Continuing on a more positive note, June 15th sees Beer Day Britain, whose campaign can be followed on Twitter: [https://twitter.com/BeerDayBritain]. The day has been selected in order to celebrate our national drink (in terms of alcoholic beverage consumption, it is above all else in the UK - at least until the start of this month where consumption of Wine has marginally pipped it, sadly for this article!). This will give many an opportunity to try something new; just like ‘Tryanuary’ has earlier this year, which provided a shot in the arm to the drinks industry (thus protecting jobs and spurring the creativity in smaller breweries we have seen blossom in the last few years), which does take a significant sales downturn in January. We have a remarkable opportunity here in the UK (indeed, globally) with a purple patch for brewing and some excellent and diverse beers being produced and without a customer demand, it is possible it will fade to a fad at some stage, although the genie will probably never be truly put back in the bottle. If a few more establishments take a leap, try sourcing some different beers and holding tasting sessions with staff, encouraging staff to take up beer sales/tasting/advising qualifications and including an extra page in a menu, beer might start to be taken a little more seriously in mainstream media. This may then give additional longevity and security to a growing UK market and indeed art form. There are many excellent and passionately eloquent writers and speakers in the world of beer, who are informed, intelligent and able to pair beer with any dish presented to them. There has been a surge in the number of female beer drinkers and brewsters (some 20,000+ at last estimate) over the last decade, which has bolstered both interest and sales. Sadly there has also been an ugly level of sexism that has not been totally eradicated in the industry, which is thankfully garnering more and more vocal opposition to this outdated and tiresome facet. Making the world of beer a more accessible and friendly place for new and curious drinkers regardless of gender is paramount, but this is a topic adequately covered by many other bloggers and writers. Accessibility should be a given for our national (alcoholic) beverage and a bit more respect should be given in the mainstream media, though many may think it is at an appropriate level, you can be guaranteed there are many thirsty for much, much more. Until next time… Pedro.
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Thanks to Baltic seafarers weighing anchor in the Mersey some 300 years ago (don’t hold me to that… I’m just using my history book!), a culinary mainstay of Liverpool was seeded in the collective consciousness. Baltic and Scandinavian stews made from simple ingredients by sailors were translated into what is now known as Scouse, which in turn was how Liverpudlians gained the moniker. Most likely, the Norwegian ‘Labskaus/Lapskaus’ or Lithuanian ‘Labas Kausas’ terms influenced the name and also the ingredients. Much like other geographically proximal stews such as Irish Stew, Lancashire Hotpot, Lobby etc, the core ingredients were root vegetables, cheap cuts of red meat and side helpings of bread and beetroot or red cabbage. The make up is the same today, with some division of opinion in the city of Liverpool as to whether to use lamb or beef and whether the side dish should be red cabbage or beetroot. My own preference, partially due to family influence and partially due to some historical facts, is to use lamb rather than beef. My Mother and Grandmother/Nan (on both sides) suggested that lamb was their preferred option, using cheap cuts such as scrag-end or middle neck to bulk out and flavour the stew. Back in the early 1700s, it is unlikely that the bulk of populous had access to cuts of beef and with Scouse being a relatively ‘poor mans’ dish, cuts of mutton are the more likely accessible precursors of the dish. Regardless of opinion, the cheaper cuts are much better in lending themselves to the slow cooking that Scouse requires, breaking down the harder fats and stray cartilage in the meat, with flavours infusing from the vegetables, completing a thickened stew full of comforting flavours. Step forward Graham Hughes, who set the ball rolling on a Global Scouse Day [http://www.globalscouseday.com/] around 2010-2011, just by inviting a few friends to join him for a bowl of Scouse. Global Scouse Day has now got its own personality, with some of the city’s cultural and culinary heavyweights shifting behind the occasion. On 28th February 2014, there was a gathering at Maggie May’s Café on Bold Street where a ‘Scouse-off’ was had: [http://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/news/liverpool-news/global-scouse-day-liverpools-favourite-6745841] plus many other events, with most of Liverpool’s restaurants getting in on the act and many putting their own fusions and twists on Merseyside’s most enduring dish. That very same event will be taking place again, same date and time on 28th February 2015. Indeed, I had a few people over to my own Laboratory for some Scouse (including a pan of Blind Scouse – extra vegetables, no meat but with the addition of mixed beans in my own twist), local beers and a treat of a dessert in Wet Nelly. What is Wet Nelly I hear many of you cry (not literally, my hearing isn’t that sharp)? It is a bread pudding dessert, allegedly commissioned by chefs in Liverpool for the arrival in port of Admiral Lord Nelson; hence how it got its nickname. Usually a sweet, short crust pie casing holds in a mix of dried fruit, cake sponge, bread, rum and syrup. In the version I served, I used the more delicate filo pastry to make individual portions, plus a little extra in the form of some all spice to add some depth to the flavour. So anyway, how did I make my Scouse and Wet Nelly? Read on… Scouse Recipe (Serves 8-9) What you need: 650g of Mutton (Legs steaks, but preferably Scrag/Middle or Best end of Neck) or Lamb 1kg of King Edward Potatoes, cubed 2 Large white onions, finely diced 4 Large carrots, peeled and diced 4 Stems of Celery, diced 70g of red split lentils 1 litre of lamb (or beef/veg) stock – see step 2 for stock make up 2 tsp oil (vegetable or olive oil) 20g butter 1 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper Red Cabbage Accompaniment ½ red cabbage 1 small glass (150ml) red wine 2 tblsp white sugar 1 tblsp white/red wine vinegar What to do: Preparation for red cabbage: - Finely chop the red cabbage and place in a saucepan with the other ingredients and cook on a medium heat until all the liquor has evaporated and the cabbage has softened. Now cover the pan and leave for at least an hour before adding 50ml of water and steaming then reducing again prior to serving. 1. Fry the onions in the oil until golden brown, although if you want a deeper and richer flavour, cook for longer to crisp the onions to add a darker colour. 2. Remove the bones from the mutton and dice coarsely, seal this off in a heavy frying pan with the oil and onions. Put the bones to one side to make a stock from (add 1.2 L of water, pinch of salt, 3 black peppercorns, 3 bay leaves and any off-cuts from the carrots/celery/onions) by simmering for at least 45 minutes in a pan. 3. Add the carrots and celery to the pan and fry until soft and going translucent. 4. Transfer the meat, carrot, onions and celery to a slow cooker or large cooking pot. Add in the potatoes, lentils, seasoning, butter and stock and leave the slow cooker/crock pot on a low heat for at least 7 hours before serving. If you do not have a slow cooker, a large cooking pot on the hob simmer for 2 hours then leaving for 4-5 hours before returning to heat for at least another 3 hours allows time to break down the tougher meat. Ensure regular stirring to prevent ingredients sticking and burning in the pan. 5. Serve with wholemeal bread and cooked, soft red cabbage (or beetroot in some households). Wet Nelly Parcels (makes 12-13) What you need: 1 packet of Filo Pastry sheets (270g) Butter to grease a muffin tray Parcel filling: 200ml whole milk 50ml single cream 150g of crumbed sponge cake (no cake cream!) 25g breadcrumbs (wholemeal) 3 tblsp Golden Syrup Grated rind of 1 small orange Pinch of All Spice 105g of Golden Raisins (soaked in 150ml of dark rum for at least 1 week) To finish: 1 Egg, beaten, to glaze Confectionery sugar to dust What to do: 1. Combine the parcel filling ingredients to form a wet paste. 2. Dusting a work surface lightly with white flour, place down and cut the pastry sheets (2 sheet thickness) to approximately 6 inch length squares and using a pastry brush, coat the pastry with the beaten egg, this should allow for greater integrity when baking the parcels. Onto the egg washed pastry, spoon 2-3 tablespoons of the filling mix then fold up and twist and pinch the pastry into a circular based parcel. 3. Brush the outside of the pastry with beaten egg and place in an individual muffin tray; which has been greased with butter. 4. Bake in an oven until the filo pastry is a golden brown colour at approximately 180 degrees Celsius or gas mark 4-5, it should take approximately 20-25mins dependent on the oven. 5. Remove from the oven and allow to cool before dusting with confectionery sugar. Serve warm with freshly made custard and sit back and watch satisfaction unfold. So there you have it…. Pretty simple dishes, comfort food at its best. Bless those Scandinavian sailors and inventive confectioners! Until next time, Pedro. ----------------------------------------------------------------- You can follow Global Scouse Day on: Twitter: https://twitter.com/GlobalScouseDay Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/globalscouseday?fref=ts |
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