It’s been a roundabout trip for Terry Langton from Love Lane to the Albert Dock, but his current (dis)position finds him again cooped up in an historic Liverpool brickwork structure creating drinks for discerning adults to enjoy. The bar is due to open its doors to the public early February, due to a number of delays which have meant missing the Christmas deadline but Terry asked everyone to be reminded that the best things come to those who wait, given a rushed opening would not leave the quality impression he wishes to be associated with. Terry began his journey (as covered in this blog: [http://electrokemistcuisine.weebly.com/blogs/the-rise-of-liverpool-craft-brewery]) with Liverpool Craft Brewing as a joint venture with Paul Seiffert (now at Black Lodge/Love Lane) before the company was sold for investment and growth (and a name change to incorporate the brewery’s flagship beer ‘Love Lane Pale’ as the brand rather than a product), he also helped set up the initial incarnation of Black Lodge before eschewing the beer for developing his own brand of Gin, Vodka and bitters under the guise of ‘Turncoat’. The Turncoat project is very much a grassroots and family orientated business, with wife Jo and other family members such as Jasmine (the new Bar’s Front of House) mucking in at events and at the office/distillery. But its inception wasn’t plain sailing, despite Terry’s experienced hands: “Everything has had teething problems, EVERYTHING!! Though realistically speaking, you cannot expect to open such a large bar in a Grade 1 Listed Building without hitting some bumps in the road. It does feel like anything that could go wrong in the lead up to getting things rolling, has indeed gone wrong. It has been a tough journey, but the team behind both the bar and the distillery have performed really well to get things going in the right direction. We also have a great Landlord and the supply chain for the bar is based locally, which makes getting the support we need so much easier. It’s been quite a humbling experience to have received so much good will and support from people, the bar will be a really positive step to take for the distillery and Turncoat’s journey. Hopefully it will be a roadmap in becoming a major independent distillery and business in Liverpool.” When asked about why he felt that Turncoat needed its own licensed premises, Terry was very clear about why they have taken this route: “I think we have a quirky message that we’d like to communicate. We’re not corporate or looking to brand jump on any bandwagon. We’re a group of passionate people who don’t take ourselves too seriously, but do take our output in a serious fashion and a great deal of pride in it. The product itself, the Gins especially, we’re proud of. Having a bar will enable us to get behind them and communicate what we’re about in a clearer manner. It feels very personal too, having a premises in such a prestigious location and being able to showcase an array of local beers and spirits. Since 2010, all the projects that I have been involved in have received support from other local bars and independent outlets, it feels great being able to pay some of that back into the wider scene. Having grown up in Liverpool though the last few decades, I have seen first-hand the change that the Albert Dock has undergone (from its dilapidation and disuse in the early 1980s, through to the regeneration and integration/link up with Liverpool One) and it now being a major tourist attraction in the city. Being a lad from Toxteth and being able to start something independent which is able to support other local and independent businesses is great, it does feel that we are taking back a piece of the Dock back from corporate holdings for Liverpool, which is a good thing for putting a stamp on the local heritage. We do love the tourists that come into the city and the best way to make them welcome and give them an experience is to provide a ‘real Liverpool’ and all the creativity it holds. Having local support for this is absolutely essential too and that’s definitely what we wish for.” Terry is also very clear of the regard he holds for the Landlord of the site, who seems to espouse the same wishes for a local and independently dominant presence in the city to encourage character and community. “JLL are amazing, we’ve been working with them for a year and given Turncoat an opportunity of a lifetime. It is really refreshing to be on the same page with our outlook on the business climate and how to contribute to that. We can’t ask for much more.” Terry does miss making beer, but not at the expense of the distilling which now takes up his thoughts. The focus on detail whilst managing logistics and other elements took up a lot of his thoughts, but he remains quite philosophical about any kind of return:
“It’s nice to mix things up, I do keep promising to do a collaboration brew and make some beer again, but I never seem to find the time to arrange it. I think the elements I most miss about brewing are the details in a brew day, having a fermentation vessel full and ready to start its journey to becoming beer whilst the smell of hot hops and sight of a clean brewery that’s ready to go again the next day are massively rewarding too. It’s a very satisfying process when you nail things right and I do miss that feeling. Currently, I run around like a headless chicken whilst our Head Distiller, Joanne and our warehouse manager, Rolf, take the brunt of production work. I am looking forward to the bar being open and getting back to being involved in the production side of things; the predictability and the order reminds me a bit more of brewing and distilling, whilst I feel I’m currently wading in chaos!” The bar itself is slated to be stocking the obligatory Turncoat range of Vodka and Gins, along with the array of bitters they produce. There are also rumoured to be other local spirits taking their place on the back of the back along with some bespoke specials produced by Turncoat especially for the premises. There will be 15 different lines of craft beer present at the bar, along with a healthy number of fridges readily stocked with an array of beers. Terry has suggested that we prepare for beers from the likes of a lot of local favourites and Siren, Lervig, Magic Rock, White Hag along with more continental gear and by virtue of their existing collaboration, some beers from Purity Brewing. “We have also installed, at great cost and by no small feat of logistical magic, a massive Gozney Wood Fired Overn, ready to be smashing out pizzas all day and night. We will of course be focussing again on local ingredients whilst twisting things around a Neapolitan style. If that wasn’t enough, the bar will also be doing Afternoon Tea (with Gin), Prosecco, cocktails and of course, normal tea. There’ll be an on-site bakery for the pizza dough, cakes and sandwiches too. Finally, there will be a ‘snug’ in the bar, where we can allow for groups to gather or for meetings to be held, I expect to be hosting a lot of tasting events in there too." ---- Site opens to the public Friday 7th February 2020. I know I can’t wait! Pedro. [some photos provided by and copyright of Turncoat]
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A joint venture between Liverpool Organic Brewery (covered on many occasions in this blog, thanks to their efforts in Beer Festival Events over the last few years, plus rather free and easy brewery tours) and John O’Dowd, Landlord of the Belvedere on Sugnall Street, Liverpool Gin has been created at a time when we are seeing a resurgence in ‘premium’ products for the food and drink market. In a somewhat paradoxical shift to the current economic downturn that is still lingering across many areas of the UK, the appetite for better food, better beers (both in terms of cask and keg ‘craft’/bottle conditioned) and indeed cocktails. Each of these has seen a rise in demand across the UK through new establishments putting down roots in our cities, stemming from London and diffusing out to other cities, including Liverpool. History states that many cities in the UK including most ports had their own Gin Distilleries present at one time or another. Despite all the negative connotations with Gin (See Hogarth’s Gin Lane propaganda and the rather negative moniker of ‘Mother’s Ruin’ which Gin acquired), it is now a rather fashionable drink and not just during summer months when the obligatory refreshment of sliced lemon or lime and heaps of ice is sought. Many food and drink programmes and other media outlets have been championing the rise of artisan Gin and styles that require other sundry flavour agents aside from citrus fruits. For a while cucumber has been associated with the likes of Hendricks, some others work best with grapefruit or mint. With Liverpool Gin, the addition of juniper berries and watermelon is a slight departure but one in keeping with the premium nature of the spirit. The distillery have held a number of tasting sessions in Liverpool now (including sales at recent beer festivals at Waterloo Christ Church and St. George’s Hall) and have rolled out production with more intent, supplying small batches out beyond Liverpool to other Gin purveying establishments in the capital, such as the Gin School night at Charlotte’s Bistro. There are a number of bars and pubs in Liverpool, which now stock Liverpool Gin; which has diamond like clarity with a fresh and punchy aroma with a slight herbiness lingering, giving a rather clever amount of length to the Gin. Having tried both the orange and berry and the watermelon and juniper combinations, the latter gives a slightly more interesting compliment with a good quality tonic. The tastings that I have personally attended prove that the distillery is keen to listen to its intended audience and build on the early momentum. Speaking to John O’Dowd from the Belvedere, I asked him a few questions to delve a bit deeper into why he had invested so much in this product…
I asked how did he become so fascinated with Gin that he felt the need to set up the Ginasium and ultimately release his own brand of Gin? John: “I spent a lot of time in Madrid and saw the growth and interest in gin so created Ginasium so Liverpool could enjoy as many gins as possible (noted a lot of competitors coming in to Belvedere and quietly taking photos of Ginasium and creating their own gin range). Then after tasting small batch production Bourbon I realised there was an opportunity to create a Liverpool gin.” When asked about how did the collaboration with Liverpool Organic Brewery came about, giving rise to the product, John replied that Liverpool Organic Brewery were supplier to Belvedere and so he came to know Mark Hensby (MD of Liverpool Gin and Liverpool Organic Brewery) personally. When John came up with the idea of gin and needed a partner as he didn't have time to do it by himself and suggest to Mark; who said "Distillery! I'm not sure about that". When John looked at his emails next day, there was one at 7.30am from Mark - “I've been up all night researching -- I think it’s a great idea!” So where does John see the distillery being in a few years time? Producing other Gin/lines of spirit? He was a little coyer on the subject, answering that “Currently there is enough to do with Gin and we do expect to expand the gin range later this year and we expect to have considerable activity over the summer over the International Festival Business.” At £36 a bottle, it isn’t a cheap item to pick up, indeed it weighs in around £10 heavier on the wallet than some other premium Gins. But then there’s a reason things of such quality hurt your pocket a bit more than larger production batch spirits, this becomes evident when they address your tastebuds in a manner you’re not usually used to. This is an excellent Gin and it can proudly wear its Golden Liver bird on its label for some time to come. Cheers! Pedro. ----- Liverpool Gin Web: http://www.liverpoolgin.com/ Liverpool Distillery Twitter: https://twitter.com/LiverpoolGin Facebook Website: https://www.facebook.com/liverpooldistillery The Belvedere, Sugnall Street: https://www.facebook.com/liverpooldistillery The Belvedere Twitter: https://twitter.com/belvederelpool You can drink Liverpool Gin in (including, but not restricted to): The Hub, Hanover Street, Liverpool The Kazimier/Kazimier Gardens, Wolstenholme Square/Seel Street, Liverpool The Freshfield, 1 Massams Lane, Formby Jenny’s Bar, The Old Ropery, Fenwick Street, Liverpool Berry and Rye, Berry Street, Liverpool R&H Fine Wines (Retail), Queens Arcade, Liverpool Cholmondeley Arms, Wrenbury Road, Malpas The Sparrowhawk, Southport Old Road, Formby |
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