Having meant to tackle a review for this establishment a bit earlier in the year, I finally asserted some will power to force a return visit (it really didn’t take too much in all truth) and consider what was on offer. Meat and Liquor is sited on Lark Lane in Liverpool and has taken over the premises of the ill-fated LaundrY (which I reviewed in a much earlier blog here: [http://electrokemistcuisine.weebly.com/blogs/restaurant-review-the-laundry-lark-lane-liverpool]) which after a relatively promising start seemingly crashed and burned; thankfully for the American influenced burger diner, it seems to have a much richer staying power with the punters. Getting past the fact that it is another burger restaurant with the usual lean towards ‘dirty’ American food, which has reached a rather tiresome level of saturation in the market, it is very very competent with what it does. Neon signs, diner style seating and decorative nods to American celebrity surround the establishment whilst customers tuck into their dinner, with a lively but congenial buzz in the atmosphere. The food is presented in paper lined plastic baskets; fairly standard these days, but as alluded to earlier there is something a little more grown up and competent about the burgers, dogs and sides fired out from the kitchen. The burgers themselves are thick 6oz efforts, juicy and cooked well and encased in a remarkably cohesive brioche bun; the bun integrity is key here, especially when saucy relishes, chilli and other wet ingredients are smothering the patties. Opting for the Del Toro, I was treated to a good thick chilli, melted jack cheese and jalapenos; smoke, sweetness and a spiced acidic kick provided a pleasant dimension to the burger. My accomplices opted for other burgers on the menu, including the aptly named ‘Brooklyn Big Ass’ which was a heavy uppercut of bacon, onion and pulled pork, the conversation dried up somewhat for a period of 5 minutes while our focus was firmly pinned on the food in front of us. A star of the show is the manner in which Meat and Liquor output their fries. The option of Chilli or pulled pork and cheese smothering the fries is something satisfying, however the presence of the oriental duck fries on the menu has caused something of a stir in the burger circles. The shredded duck meat with spring onion and mayonnaise is a rather decadent edge on the occasion and unsurprisingly, the success of the side as a special has prompted retention on the menu and garnered some level of fame. Alas, the level was not really maintained for the ‘onion strings’, which are a relatively poor substitute for onion rings; whilst not as traditionally greasy, they lack something in terms of body to really get onto a fork and provide a mouthful. The milkshakes are a popular option and another nod to the 1950’s Americana, the beers on offer are solid offerings; Brooklyn Lager and Flying Dog Atlantic Lager are both excellent pairings to go with this kind of food, whilst bottled options are drive by Goose Island and Sam Adams; there could be a shout to some other burger-friendly British (or even other American) options given the craft beer fashions we are currently seeing. Finally, someone was feeling a little more greedy, undertaking dessert with gusto. An ice cream sundae was demolished in double-quick time, quiet and satisfied nods were the response to enquiry about dessert. Service was good; friendly, timing nigh on impeccable and there was no fussing in removing glasses and baskets before anyone was finished. Meat and Liquor is not related to the famed Meat Liquor from elsewhere, but it does possess a solid product which if maintained to these standards will not blow any minds, but will continue to provide an excellent addition to Lark Lane where one can stumble in and tackle American-style fast food for grown ups in a messy, but satisfied manner. Pedro. ----------------------------------------------- Meat and Liquor 101 Lark Lane Aigburth Liverpool L17 8UP Tel: 0151 727 3126 Twitter: https://twitter.com/MeatFactoryLiv
1 Comment
Pedro
8/22/2014 01:36:05 am
N.B.
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