Since departing the comfort and steady business of the London Carriage Works, Paul Askew has set about his ambitious project for the Art School, which opened its doors at the beginning of September to much anticipation. The Art School is tucked away behind the impressive Liverpool Philharmonic Hall on the truncated Sugnall Street, tagged onto the side of the former sheltering home for destitute children on Myrtle Street. Upon being greeted by a gentleman in what can only be described as a stereotypical Englishman’s garb (bowler hat and soberly hued suit in pristine condition) and ushered into the restaurant, there is a definite sense of things being allocated with precision. The restaurant is airy and bright but not oppressively so, altogether it is also comfortable both physically and in a mentally relaxing sense, remaining uncluttered by unnecessary ornamental faff. The stark reds and well judged décor punctuations around the walls of the former ‘Lantern Room’ are twinned with a curiosity-friendly viewing window into Paul Askew’s kitchen (for those of an inquisitive nature) to cast an eye inwards to the Art School’s culinary foundry, to provide novel points of interest on the premises. The menus are currently on two levels, wit h a prix fix menu of up to three courses available earlier in the day and the menu excellence available through until the close of play, there is the opportunity for the diner to sample two levels from the Art School’s prowess. Of course, dining a little later on, the menu excellence was the easy and only choice. The five courses came at an eerily well-judged pace from the kitchen, from the four canapé mouthfuls, comprising plump and flavoursome black and green olives, venison with a sweet puree, feta cheese and sweet cherry tomato of which both elements melted in the mouth most satisfyingly and finally a crouton with prawns and black caviar. Presented with a glass of champagne on arrival, all very civilised and befitting a menu designed to tease you into the forthcoming course. The second salvo is that of a wonderfully robust and sweet lobster bisque with olive tapenade and a dipping crouton, salty and sweet with a pleasant texture, drinking the excess from the teacup in which it was presented was a cheeky touch to the amuseé bouche. Two types of bread were brought out, along with some seasoned butter, which was a balm on the slightly tough foccacia, which needed a much sharper knife to fully master; the butter was also a lovely moistener to a bread reminiscent of walnut malt loaf, but with more elegance, less density but no less flavour. Red Mullet with caviar and crab salad was fresh, delightfully light and prepared excellently with adornment from nasturtium petals and crisp arced shards of fennel. The Duck was much more to get excited about, soft, sweet and succulent with a salad crisp, deeply sweet on behalf of the figs, slightly acidic and perfectly balanced against the backbone component of the dish. A large swirl of squash puree backed up the dish providing a swathe of colour to compliment the red of the meat, the fig and white backdrop. The Assiete of Beef comprised tongue, sirloin, featherblade with a fondant heritage potato and brown shrimp dappling the tongue and featherblade elements all tuned to the backdrop on slate with smears of sweet shallot puree. Each component provided a movement on the theme; varying textures and flavours, but most surprising and welcome, was the tongue providing huge licks of flavour (sorry, couldn’t resist). The Partridge was less inspiring but still a pleasing dish, a whole bird accompanied by a brilliant brassica construct, full of flavour and diverse texture, potatoes and apples. If this was my Sunday roast, I would be hugely pleased, however, the breast of the game bird seemed a little tamely flavoured, at least when compared to the legs. Gateau St. Honore, the dessert created and monikered after the French patron saint of bakers was a hub of puff and choux pastry and generously filled profiteroles, capped with caramel and corralling the main event, the plate was also bejewelled by lime jellies and acerbically pleasant and tangy raspberries around the edge. The subtle hint of liquorice in the blackberry filling gives an added dimension to the dish and although the pastry was possibly a touch dry, the generously filling of the fruit compote and plenty of creme patissiere was easily enough to keep things lubricated and decadent. The theme on caramel was an exercise in elements with a tuille of sesame pastry, soft sticky tatin, a caramel sponge, strawberries reminiscent of halcyon youthful summers, a pleasing ice cream and a texturally welcome almond brittle. Many touches, but all singing from the same confected song sheet. The wine menu was logically set out for those with a bit of oenological knowhow, but possibly a daunting exercise was the selection and the staff are always on hand to provide an opinion or nudge in the appropriate direction. Although some of the staff are known to be apprentices, the more senior staff have provided more than adequate guidance and nothing was out of place or unwelcome at any stage of the experience.
As far as fine-dining is concerned, there was a definite gap in Liverpool for the Art School into which it has eased itself. The question as to whether it will achieve a Michelin Star, as is the undercurrent of the restaurant’s remit? Perhaps, as time will only tell at this stage. The service, surroundings and technique are all evident and the thought given to them is admirable, but it might need something to push along the menu in terms of taking a risk with ingredients and flavour sets, it all works wonderfully well yet it feels like the powder keg has not been filled to full incendiary capacity just yet. Get in while there is trepidation and see the bar has been raised in Liverpool city centre, I intend on further investigation to the prix fix. The hype has been realised somewhat and that, is no mean feat. Until next time! Pedro. --------------------------------------------------- The Art School 1 Sugnall Street Liverpool L7 7DX Tel: 0151 230 8600 Email: [email protected] Web: http://www.theartschoolrestaurant.co.uk/ Twitter:https://twitter.com/ArtSchoolLpool
6 Comments
Earth Mover
9/11/2014 09:29:39 pm
I'd shag all of that
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Earth Mover
9/11/2014 09:31:23 pm
This magestic food makes my nipples tingle.
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James
9/12/2014 07:18:58 pm
Thanks so much for the wonderful write up. All of the staff have had a read and are delighted.
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Pedro
9/25/2014 10:45:06 pm
Hi James,
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Pedro
9/25/2014 10:43:48 pm
Hi Julie,
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